On the banks of the Neman River, the historic city of Grodno in Belarus has witnessed a turbulent and eventful past, leaving behind a rich heritage of culture, commerce, architecture and conflict that continues to define the city today. Long a frontier town of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and later of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, it served as a royal residence and hosted sessions of the Commonwealth's parliament. Two castles stand side by side above the river: the Old Castle, rebuilt as a Renaissance residence for King Stefan Batory, and the Baroque New Castle beside it. Below them the streets keep an unusually intact prewar fabric, with a Jesuit cathedral, a synagogue and merchant houses around the market square.
