The second part of this portrait leaves the Main Market Square for the districts that give Krakow its depth. It moves through Kazimierz, established as a separate town in the Middle Ages and long home to one of the most important Jewish communities in Europe, where synagogues, cemeteries and Gothic parish churches stand within a few streets of one another. It follows the line of the Planty, the green belt laid out where the medieval walls once ran, past the surviving Barbican and city gate. It enters the courtyards of the old university and the Baroque churches of Grodzka Street, and looks at the workshops, cafes and cellars that keep the historic centre in use rather than preserving it as a museum. Krakow's fabric survived the twentieth century largely intact, which is precisely what makes it exceptional and what earned its old town a place among the earliest UNESCO World Heritage inscriptions. This episode completes the reading of that ensemble.
